Traditional Crochet Leg Warmers

MATERIALS:

• Worsted Weight Yarn in 4 colors
  • Model shown in Hobby Lobby's I Love This Yarn Neons
• Crochet Hook: I/5.5 mm
• Yarn Needle

SIZE:
Instructions are written in sizes 0-6 mo, with 6-12 mo, toddler, child/teen, women’s medium, women’s large in parenthesis. Example: 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6) Child/teen and women’s small cross over a bit here. You can just make them the length necessary to fit how tall the individual is.

For a more precise fit, if you have your model to measure, you can take the leg measurement and use this formula: (leg measurement – 1”) x 4 = base chain. Example: leg measurement of 9” would look like this. (9-1) x 4 = 32. Base chain for a 9” leg is 32 chains.

Circumference measurements for the pattern listed sizes are as follows 6” (7”, 8”, 10”, 12”, 14”)

Recommended lengths for legwarmers: 6”, (9”, 9”, 11”, 14”, 14”). The first two sizes are designed to go above the knee. If you want them below the knee as on my youngest in the photographs then you will need to make them shorter than the recommended measurements.
Recommended lengths for legwarmers (toddler size on up): 5” for all sizes.

GAUGE:
8 sc x 8 rows = 2" square

NOTES:
Ch 2 counts as a hdc stitch.
Ch 3 counts as a dc stitch.
When working the tc stitches, they are worked in the front of dc stitches. There should always be a gap or space between te tc stitch and the dc stitches, like this:

The tc stitches will be a little shorter than the space there is to work them. This is to help create some tension in the legwarmer so that it holds to the leg a little better. Don’t be afraid if these stitches seem to pull your work closer together. When you wear the legwarmers they will stretch.

I don’t recommend carrying your colors in this pattern. With the open spaces they have a chance to show through.

LEGWARMERS (Make 2)
Ch 20, (24, 28, 36, 44, 52) join into a ring (be sure not to twist it as you do so) and join with a sl st to first ch.
Round 1: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with a sl st to top of ch 2. (20, 24, 28, 36, 44, 52 hdc) End of row counts stay the same throughout.
Round 2: Ch 3, dc next 2 st, tc in st just before ch 3, *skip 1 st, dc next 3 st, tc in skipped st,* repeat *to* around. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 3: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with a sl st to top of ch 2. Change colors on sl st.
Round 4: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with a sl st to top of ch 2. Change colors on sl st.
Round 5: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with a sl st to top of ch 2.
Round 6: Ch 3, dc in next 2 st, skip 4 st, tc, dc in the second skipped st and next two st behind the tc, *skip st with tc and next 3 st, tc, dc in each of the three skipped st behind the tc,* repeat *to* around, tc in the very first skipped st of the round in front of ch 3 and first two dc, join with sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 7: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with a sl st to top of ch 2. Change colors on sl st.
Round 8: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with a sl st to top of ch 2. Change colors on sl st.
Round 9 to desired length: Repeat rounds 1-8. End on either round 3 or 7. Change to color you want to use for border on last sl st.

Border
Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, skip 1 st, dc in next st, sc in skipped st being sure to sc right over the top of the dc, *skip dc and 1 st, dc next st, sc in skipped st,* repeat *to* around. If you have an extra st at the end that is ok, sc in it, join with a sl st to top of first sc.
Break yarn and weave in all ends using yarn needle.